Installation Instructions – Vinyl Floor Tiles
Always check flooring panels for defects such as chips and colour variations under good light conditions. Also check that grooves are free of debris.
It is recommended to use panels from the same dye batch, as variation in colour can occur from one batch to another. It is advisable to use panels from multiple boxes during installation.
Click LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) flooring MUST be allowed to acclimatise to the temperature and humidity of the room. Leave the closed package for at least 24 hours prior to installation.
Preferred temperature should be (17 – 29°C).
NOTE: If flooring is exposed to temperatures less than (5°C) for more than one hour, an additional 4 hours of acclimatisation is required at the preferred temperature (17 -29°C). Spread the cartons out during acclimatisation trying not to stack the cartons.
NOTE: If stacking is necessary, stack the cartons in a crisscross manner. Never stack the cartons more than 3 boxes high.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
Utility knife, straight edge, ruler, spacers, pencil, guillotine machine and tape measure. Large industrial scissors or cutting shears may be required for special rounded cuts. If existing skirting is difficult to remove, quarter rounds / scotias will be required to cover expansion space needed between flooring and skirting.
SUITABLE TYPES OF SUB FLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION
The sub floor must be even, dry and clean. Carpet staples / nails or glue residue must be removed and old flooring must be removed. Substrate must be clean to ensure proper installation.
To check for evenness of substrate hammer a nail into the centre of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor for any high/low points relative to the string. Gaps cannot exceed 3mm per 920mm. Any unevenness in excess, must be sanded down or filled with appropriate leveller. Click LVT can be installed over most existing floors including wood, vinyl, and linoleum. It can be installed over ceramic / porcelain tiles. However, the grout lines must be filled with a skim coat of floor leveller, or use a 2mm high density underlay (FinLay) to bridge these gaps.
NOTE: LVT must not be installed over any carpet or felt based underlay or wood parquet block flooring. This will void the warranty.
WARNING: The flooring should not be installed in sunrooms or rooms with direct sunlight unless during peak hours of sunlight, blinds, shades or drapes are closed.
LVT is a waterproof product and can withstand topical water and water penetration for up to 16 hours without damage to the floor. However, water leaking over or around the outer edges of the flooring can damage a wooden substrate. This is not considered a defect in the flooring or installation. Moisture rising from new or old concrete can create high levels of moisture vapour emissions, hydrostatic pressure and high levels of alkalinity. This combination is highly corrosive and will damage the flooring over time. To avoid this problem, a Calcium Chloride test and PH level test must be performed prior to installation. If the level of vapour emissions / hydrostatic pressure exceeds 3.5 kg and/or the alkalinity level is 9 or higher, a moisture barrier must be present.
New concrete screed needs to cure for at least 60 DAYS before installation.
- Remove the tongue (on the long side) from the first row of planks. This will ensure that the decorative surface of the flooring is under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it snaps off.
NOTE: The first plank may need to be trimmed for a better fit at the end of the installation. Measure the room and divide by the width of the plank. If there is a remainder of less than 60 / 50mm the first row will need to be cut down by that amount.
- Starting in the left hand corner, place the first plank with its trimmed side towards the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion gap of (7-8mm) between the wall and the flooring.
- Attach the ends of the first end of the plank and the second plank by lifting the second plank and inserting the tongue on the short side into the groove of the first plank and rotating into place. Line up edges and corners carefully.
- Continue along the wall until you reach the last full plank, connecting them in the manner described in the earlier step. To fit the last plank, turn over (face down). Place the plank in the corner so the tongue, on the short end, touches the adjacent wall. Measure using the installed plank (on the bottom on the upside down plank) as a guide. Mark this length. This should leave the required distance from the wall.
- Using a sharp utility knife and a straight edge, score a line on the top surface of the plank. The plank should split on the score line with little effort. If the plank does not split on the score line perfectly, the utility knife blade may need to be replaced or the score line needs to be a little deeper.
NOTE: The end piece must be longer than 300mm. This may require a cut to start the row, depending on the size of the room(s).
Practise scoring on a plank prior to beginning of installation.
- Begin next row with the off cut piece from the previous row to stagger pattern. This piece should be a minimum of 300mm long and the joint off set from the previous row should be at least 300mm apart. To attach, tilt the plank you are installing slightly upwards (about 15 – 25°) and rotate downwards into place. The plank will click into place with light pressure.
- Install the second plank in the second row by inserting the short end tongue into the previously installed plank groove. Align the plank so that the long side tongue tip is positioned just over the groove lip of the first row. Working from the end seam, at a low angle, insert the long tongue into the groove of the adjoining plank. You should be able to feel the tongue lock into the groove. Continue locking each piece into the short side first and then the long side.
- To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the plank against the wall, mark a line down each of the planks. Be sure to keep the loose plank against the wall. Disengage the row and cut the pieces along the marked line. This will become the last row. Continue the installation. Remember to use a different length on the first and the last piece. After the row is installed, the cut row will fit into place with the appropriate space being left for expansion.
- Door frames and heating vents also require expansion gaps. Cut the panel to the correct length. Place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side.
- You can trim door frames by turning a panel upside down and using a hand saw or angle grinder to cut away the necessary height so that panels slide easily under the frames.
- To finish the perimeter of the room, install quarter rounds/ scotias / skirtings using finishing nails. Nail quarter rounds directly into the skirting and not the flooring.