Inovar Floor laminate flooring can be used and installed as a DIY product. Although we strongly recommend using a professional to make sure your subfloors and installation method are adequate to keep your warranty in order. Every box has the installation instructions on the back on the box. If you would like to view the instructions online please view instructions or download them as a pdf.
Installation Instructions – Supreme Laminates
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLATION.
- Always check panels for defects such as chips and colour or sheen differences under good light conditions. Also check that the groove is clean and free of debris.
- Your laminate flooring MUST be allowed to acclimatise to the environment of the installation area. Leave the closed packages in a horizontal position, on supports at least 20mm off the substrate / floor surface, in the room for 48 hours prior to installation. Preferable temperature should be approximately 17 to 23°C with a relative humidity of 45 to 60%. See photo 1.
- For best appearance, plan on laying the panels parallel to the main light source to minimise the appearance of joints. See photo 2.
- If existing skirting is difficult to remove, it may be left in place. Quarter rounds are all that are needed to cover the expansion space between flooring and skirting.
Tools and supplies required are:
- Foam underlay with 200 micron vapour barrier, pressure sensitive polypropylene adhesive tape such as Duct Tape or equivalent, spacers, tapping block, pull bar, saw, hammer, utility knife, pencil, tape measure, ruler, construction adhesive.
- If installing over a crawlspace (make sure crawlspace has cross ventilation airflow and air vents are open /unobstructed) or on a concrete floor, you must also install 200 micron polyethylene vapour barrier under your 3mm foam underlay or use a convenient 2-in-1 foam underlay that has a vapour barrier built-in. When installing 2- in-1 foam underlay, butt seams and then completely seal seams using polypropylene adhesive tape.
Suitable types of sub-floors and floor preparation
- The underfloor or sub-floor must be thoroughly even, dry, clean and solid. Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation. See photo 3.
- To check for evenness, hammer a nail into the centre of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor at eye level for any gaps between the string and the floor. Move the string around the perimeter of the room noting any gaps larger than 3mm. Any floor unevenness of more than 3mm per 1 metre must be sanded down or filled in with an appropriate filler. See photo 4.
- Floors must be carefully checked for moisture problems. Any moisture problems need to be solved before installation. New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installation.
- THIS PRODUCT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR DAMP ROOMS SUCH AS BATHROOMS, SAUNAS, ROOMS WITH DAMP CONCRETE, ROOMS WITH FLOOR DRAINS OR ROOMS THAT COULD POTENTIALLY FLOOD.
- For installation on concrete floors or any floors over a crawl space a vapour barrier MUST be laid down first. Use no more than 3mm Poly. Run the poly 5cm up walls and overlap seams by at least 200mm. Tape seams the entire length of the joint. See photos 5 & 6.
- All flooring installations require foam underlay, or similar. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the laminate panels. Underlay should be butted side by side with no overlap. Tape seams together. See diagram 22 & photo 7.
- You will need to remove the tongue, on the long side of the panels that face the wall, from the appropriate amount of panels for your first row.
This is to ensure that the decorative surface of the laminate is well under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it easily snaps off. See diagram 22 & photo 8.
- Start in a corner, working left to right, to work out of the room. Start by placing the first panel with its trimmed side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 8 to 12mm between the wall and flooring. See diagram 22 & photo 9.
- REMEMBER THAT THIS PRODUCT IS PRIMARILY WOOD AND NEEDS ROOM TO EXPAND AND CONTRACT. AT NO POINT SHOULD YOU ATTACH THE FLOOR TO ANY SURFACE.
- Attach the ends of the panels using a hammer and tapping block. Line the edges up carefully. See photo 10.
- Continue along the wall until you reach the last full panel, connecting them as you go. To fit the last panel, rotate the panel 180° with the pattern side upward, place beside row, mark off the excess and saw off. When using a handsaw, cut on the decorative surface. If you use a jig or circular saw, cut with the decorative side down to avoid chipping. Use a pull bar to tap the last piece into place. See photo 11.
- Begin the next row with the off cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be at least 200mm and header to header at least 300mm. To attach the panels tilt the panel you are attaching slightly upwards (about 15-25°). When lowered, the plank will click into place with light pressure. Make sure gaps are as small as possible. Continue along locking each piece into place ensuring a straight, tight fit beginning with the long side first and then tapping the short side into place, using a hammer and tapping block. See photo 12.
- To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, lay another panel upside down on the one to be measured and use it as a ruler. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the panels and tap into place using the pull bar. See photos 13 & 14.
- Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First cut the panel to the correct length. Then place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side. See photo 15.
- You can trim door frames by turning a panel upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that the panels slide easily under the frames. See photo 16.
- Reducer moulding is used to finish flooring when the adjoining surface is lower than the laminate flooring or when the flooring meets carpet.
- Position the U track 7mm between each edge of the flooring. Screw, nail or glue down the track directly to the sub- floor and then insert the reducing strip into the track. See photos 17, 18 & 19.
- T-moulding is used to finish flooring when two level surfaces meet in doorways or for expansion joints. Install same as above. If your room is more than 7m wide you will need to allow for an expansion joint. Expansion joints use T-mouldings and can be positioned in any inconspicuous place.
- Stair-nose moulding is used to finish flooring on landings or stair edges. Mouldings need to be glued and screwed down to the sub-floor for safety and stability. Colour fill should be used to cover counter sunk screws. See photo 20.
- To finish the perimeter of the room install quarter rounds or skirting using finishing nails. Quarter rounds are nailed directly into the skirting. See photo 21.
Maintenance and Cleaning
- Do not use a wet spray micro fibre mop. Use a well rung out damp cloth to clean up any dirt and footprints but avoid using excessive moisture. All spills should be cleaned up immediately. Never use wax, polish or scouring agents as they may dull or distort the finish. You can use acetone or a cleaner specially formulated for laminate floors to remove stubborn marks.
- To avoid scratches apply felt pads to your furniture legs and use only soft rubber casters. Protect high traffic areas with runners and rugs.
- It is a good idea to save a few boards in case of accidental damage. Boards can be replaced or repaired by a flooring professional.